Descendientes de Jose Palacios 2008
Medium red ruby, vibrant and youthful with a watery rim. Nose alluded to the red berry, raspberry and lead pencil of Cabernet Franc but with the rich cherry of Pinot. This is a wine often termed the Pinot of Spain but genetically related to Cabernet Franc. The palate had med (+) intensity with juicy red berry fruit and a sense of vibrancy from the med (+) acidity which was well integrated and seamless. There was still some chalky medium tannins which will need 2 years to resolve or so. A refreshing and lithe red wine from a star of the Bierzo region. 100% Mencia. Drink 2013 till 2018. 90 points
0 Comments
Kalleske Clarry's Red 2009
Drunk during CNY eve dinner, proving a versatile pairing with rich meat dishes like roast duck, stewed pork + yam and Hakka "Char Yuk" (Fried pork belly cubes marinated with fermented bean curds.)

Youthful, dark ruby red. Wine was chilled which served to reduce the alcohol lift of the wine. Attractive nose of blueberries, dark plums, milk chocolate creamy nuances and mocha. Moderately intense but maintaining a floral element. Palate was rich and intense, with blackberries, kirsch, dark ripe plums and some well concealed cedary spicy oak and some warm chocolate notes on the moderately long finish. Soft and velvety tannins and sufficient medium acidity to provide some freshness to the wine. Exactly what you look for in a Barossa Aussie red, a well made example, warm and generous. Drink now till 2016. (89 points)
38 Comments
Domaine Aubuissiere Vouvray Silex 2009
100% Chenin Blanc. Pale appearance. Aromas of fresh pineapple, honey and lemons. Muted yet still enjoyable. Palate was soft, with a spine of medium (+) acidity suffusing the citrus and light tropical accents of the wine. The wine was slightly off dry, with hints of sweetness accompanying the light honeyed notes on the finish. Drink now till 2014. (88-89 points)

A wine that I feel would pair very well indeed with Yee Sang, during this CNY festive season, there is sufficient sweetness to balance off the sweet sauces of the dish yet enough acidity to offer some light refreshment on the palate.
39 Comments
Selbach Oster Zeltinger Schlossberg Spatlese 2008
Pale light yellow in appearance. Floral nose of lime zest, mineral notes, apricots, orchard fruits and mandarins. Palate conveyed the Germanic excellence of being both light, soft yet fairly intense. Lime blossoms, lemon zest, ripe apricots, peaches and honeyed notes intermingled and underpinned by medium (+) acidity which lacked the verve and vivacity of a top vintage, still provided good enjoyment. The palate was off dry with sufficient intensity to lead to a fairly long finish. Drink now till 2018. (89 points)
35 Comments
Domaine de La Tour Clos de Vougeot 2004
Light ruby red, some lightening on the edges indicating some age. Nose had a combination of stemmy, matured notes but juxtaposed with ripe, dark fruits, sur maturite aromas. Slightly confusing, leading me initially to a perceived new world origin. Further breathing revealed more classic sweaty and mineral nuances to the wine. There was slight concealed moderate acidity which points perhaps to a longer ripening period. Guessing there has been a significant per fermentation cold soak. Nevertheless the length of the wine and flavour intensity is still very good. Drink now till 2020. (90 points) 
45 Comments
Domaine de La Tour Clos de Vougeot 2004
Light ruby red, some lightening on the edges indicating some age. Nose had a combination of stemmy, matured notes but juxtaposed with ripe, dark fruits, sur maturite aromas. Slightly confusing, leading me initially to a perceived new world origin. Further breathing revealed more classic sweaty and mineral nuances to the wine. There was slight concealed moderate acidity which points perhaps to a longer ripening period. Guessing there has been a significant per fermentation cold soak. Nevertheless the length of the wine and flavour intensity is still very good. Drink now till 2020. (90 points) 
37 Comments
Domaine Robert Chevillon Les Vaucrains 1er Cru 2008
Medium (-) ruby red. Cool restrained nose of red cherries, soft and lifted light sweet spice and some minty leafy notes. Palate was balanced, medium bodied, conveying a sense of lightness yet accompanied by a medley of red and black cherries, dusty spice. fresh high acidity and a softly lingering palate. A wine that builds on you, restrained but certainly not modest. Together with the Les St George, always regarded as deserving of Grand Cru status. Drink 2012 till 2025. (91 points)
35 Comments
Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue Chambolle Musigny Musigny Grand Cru 2001
Medium ruby red. Essence of dark spices, black cherrie compote, earth, a whiff of mint, smoke and rose petals. Palate of liquid minerals, velvety tannins, fairly elevated but integrated alcohol which served to enhance the perfumed and lifted character of the wine. Velvety tannins provide the backdrop to the counterplay of plums, cherry compote, laced with intense minerality yet maintaining the legendary balance of a top Musigny and a long lingering finish. Power and elegance inherent in a wine of immaculate conception. Drink 2016 till 2030. (94 points)
37 Comments
Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue Chambolle Musigny Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2001
The soil composition of the Bonnes Mares vineyard is more clay. As a result the wines tend to have lower acidity, less mineral infused. The style of Bonnes Mares stands alone in the stable of Vogue wines. Sonourous, perfumed nose alluding to incense, dark spices and cloves followed by dark plums, roses, earth and some soy. Proceeding to unveil dense, dark spice, stemmy notes and lead pencil. Acidity was medium but the wine had sinewy, velvety quality and a long finish. Drink 2012 till 2028. (92-94 points)
35 Comments
Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses 2001
A deeper profile on the nose compared to the earlier wines. Dark red fruits of plum and cherry, earth and minerals, a whiff of lead pencil, and deeply musky rose petals. Some med alcohol apparent which does not detract from a classy nose. Proceeding to crushed earth, licorice, dark plums and cherries on the palate. Fine med (-) tannins, limpid and lacy. Step up with density of flavours and dark intense spice. Drink now till 2022. (93 points)
38 Comments
Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru 2001
Pale ruby red, watery rim showing some age. Lifted floral nose, violets and rose petals, dark spice, cherry compote and perfumed. A move up in quality. Taste of darker spice, mineral laced mid palate, ripe rounded tannins, svelte, black cherries turning to sour cherries with more breathing. Long finish. Drink now till 2018. (91 points)
36 Comments
Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue Chambolle Musigny 2002
Med (-) ruby red, some browning on the edges. Some lifted med (+) alcohol, stalky, smoke, ash, licorice and black cherries followed by some sweaty  notes, floral, intense. palate was less impressive with ripe black cherries, blackberry, raspberry notes, soft mouthfeel and moderately long finish. Drink now till 2016. (90 points)
43 Comments
Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue Bourgogne Blanc 1996
Medium yellow, still youthful appearance. Nose of honeysuckle, minerals, citrus zest and lemon curd. Followed by aromas of white peaches, flowers and some aged honeyed notes. Still fresh acidity, fruit is fading, green apple, medium (-) finish, framed by a touch of oak. A wine at its optimum, a revelation that simple Bourgogne Blanc. This was not a highly regarded vintage for this wine but there is unmistakable pedigree in this wine, which is effectively youg vine Musigny. Drink now till 2013. (88 points)  
0 Comments
Esterhazy Estoras 2008
Med (+) ruby red intensity. Complex nose of graphite, dark brambly fruits, finely integrated toasty oak. Palate is sonorous with good intense black fruits, black cherries, plums countered by black earth, soy, cedar. The tannins are fine grained and grippy with the finish long. A wine reshowing pedigree but requiring time. Drink 2014 till 2022. (89-91 points)
0 Comments
Esterhazy Blaufrankisch Follig 2008
Med (+) ruby red intensity and a watery rim. Distinct mulberry, raspberry topnote to the wine as well as slightly unusual rubbery scents to the wine. Pinotage like without the riper notes. Confected raspberry note prevailing. Palate has deceptively high acidity, red fruits, more kirsch, soft medium (-) tannins with a slightly diluted watery mid palate. Better when tasted when first opened one day before. Moderate length. Drink now till 2014. (87 points)
24 Comments
Esterhazy Schneiderteil Merlot 2008
Youthful medium (+) ruby intensity. Distinct lead pencil quality to the nose, unusual, unless perhaps some Cabernet Sauvignon added? St Emilion like. Noticeable alcohol brambly black fruits, plum and cassis. Leafy notes too. Fine grained but high tannins, unusual in a Merlot. Restrained and tight palate of cassis, plums and blackberries. Very terroir driven minerality. Acidity freshens up the wine and the finish is long. A keeper. Drink 2014 till 2020. (88-90 points)
35 Comments
Clos Henri Pinot Noir 2007
Medium (-) ruby red with a watery rim. Aromatic nose of wet earth, soy, leafy nuances and black cherries. Palate is soft, with high acidity providing a refreshing counterpoint to the slightly elevated med (+) alcohol, the main giveaway to it's new world origins. The fruit is pure and ripe, with cherries and plum abound. Secondary notes of earth, spice and vegetal hints provide complexity. Tannins are fine, lithe and med (-), caressing the palate towards a finish which is long. Drink now till 2015. (90 points)
35 Comments
Henri Bourgeous Les Baroness Sancerre 2007
Pale yellow in appearance. Nose had distinct flinty note, wet stone character which was dominant. Followed by perfumed grapefruit, white flowers and grass. Palate was balanced and restrained with liquid mineral notes, citrus and lemon zest followed by more ripe, grapefruit and unripe pineapple notes. Acidity was racy and high leading to a long finish. Uniquely Sancerre with perhaps only Chablis, sharing the same soil capable of similar Silex notes. Drink now till 2014. (90 points)
39 Comments
Esterhazy Estoras Gruner Veltliner 2009
Medium yellow colour. Fresh nose redolent of hay, freshly cut grass. Capsicum, citrus and fresh apricots. The palate has crisp acidity, an intense palate of lemon, lime, citrus fruits and some lees derived complexity. Oak is not apparent and the finish is long and lingering. The mid palate is impressive, building to a long mineral infused finish. Drink now till 2016. (90 points)
37 Comments
Domaine Jamet Cote Rotie 2004
Med ruby red intensity with some browning on the edges. Nose was Pinot like with wet earth, earthy notes followed by some fried herbs. Dried plums and black cherries were prevalent. The palate was restrained, dry, with med (+) acidity, a core of dried red fruits mainly, blackberries, soft cedary oak, bony medium (+) tannins and a long finish. Some stalky hints rounding off on the finish. Gevrey like Cote Rotie, which is exactly in the older style of wines from the region. Drink now till 2018. (90 points)
0 Comments
Domaine Jean Philip Fichet Less Referts 1er Cru Puligny Montrachet 2004
Med yellow in appearance showing some age. The nose had tangerines, a tingly zesty lemon peel note which I normally associate with Meursault. There was also an initial oaky note which blew away to reveal more well integrated cedary notes. The palate was restrained and cool, with mineral nuances underpinning the still bright lemon curd, green apples and stone fruit hints. The wine had fresh, high acidity, med (+) intensity and a long finish. Impressive, a Puligny with structure, yet with Meursault high toned fresh green fruit accent. Drink now till 2015. (91 points)
33 Comments
Domaine Fontaine Gagnard Criots-Batard Montrachet 2008
Pale yellow colour, youthful watery sheen on the rim. Classy and intense nose was relatively subdued but still displayed lemon blossoms, green apples, white peaches, minerality and a hint of cedar. Bottle was opened 2 days ago but still displayed a deceptively intense palate of crushed stones, rapier like but well integrated acidity balanced by soft honeyed stone fruits, peaches, lemons, medium bodied, well integrated high quality light to medium toast new oak leading to a long intense finish. Med (-) alcohol was never apparent. Impressive. Drink 2015 till 2028. (92 points)
46 Comments
Domaine Robert Chevillon Les Roncieres Nuits St George 1er Cru 2007
Med (-) ruby red with a watery rim. The nose had a distinctly mineral note, suffused with gently building red cherry fruit and red plums with more breathing. The nose was discreet yet displayed great balance of fruit and wet stones. Some dark spice notes embellished a pleasing top note. The palate was medium (-), with well integrated med (-) alcohol, yet providing a perception of lightness and balance with all elements of red fruits, minerals, spice and soft cedary oak blending well. Some earthy and savoury notes came to the fore with time. The finish was long and intense. An impeccably balanced wine, with time ahead of it. Drink 2012 till 2022. (91 points)
0 Comments
Pyramid Valley Calvert Pinot Noir 2007
Medium ruby intensity, clear. Nose initially showed some sweaty sour cherry notes before more oaky, cedary notes took over. After 30 minutes of aeration, began to show more primary red cherry flavours and sweet spice. The palate had med (+) acidity, and soft velvety tannins. The alcohol began to show more as the wine warmed up, betraying its new World breeding. The moderately intense palate had sweet spice, black cherries and red plum. Finish was a little short. Drink now till 2015. (88 points)
39 Comments
J.J Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese 1999
Still a youthful medium (-) yellow colour. The nose displayed fresh but ripe pineapples and lemon zest with hardly any kero notes which one would expect to start showing at 11 years of age. The intense palate was lithe, with vibrant refreshing acidity allowing the mineral cut and dash of the mid palate of the wine to come to the fore. There was a palette of fresh citrus flavours, pineapples, green apples and some bortrytis honey hints. The finish is long and crystalline with a clear sense of origin and undoubted high quality. Drink now till 2025. (91 1/2 points)
40 Comments
Tenuta Marchesi di Gresy Camp Gros Martinenga 1999
Some bricking on the edges, classic Barolo with the brown tints showing some age but some lifted med + alcohol. The nose has dried cherries which graduated to sour cherries with more aeration. There was also tar, leafy forest floor nuances and red plums. The palate had sour red cherries, red plums with still quite aggressive powdery tannins present. The wine had a slightly hot finish but good acidity freshens up the finish. Drink now till 2015. (90 points)
34 Comments
Dry River Syrah 2008
A dark ruby core. Reticent nose of red plums, black cherries, some cinnamon and cedar tints. Medium bodied palate of black cherries, red plums, bright cinnamon spice and a moderate tannin profile, soft powdery in profile with moderate to high fresh acidity finishing off the wine. A charming wine which requires some time to develop more complexity. Drink 2012 till 2020. (90 points)
38 Comments
Dy River Gewurztraminer 2009
Medium yellow intensity. A typically intense nose of lychees, rosewater, ginger and underlying overripe pineapple, leading to a moderately intense, off dry palate of ginger snaps, lychees and rosewater again, ending with medium acidity and a moderate finish. Hint of cedary spicy oak on the finish. Drink now till 2014. (89 points)
0 Comments
Dry River Chardonnay 2009
Nose of intense grapefruit, lemon sorbet and green apples. Pure and limpid, tinged with a unique fresh and yet ripe nose which I often associate with biodynamic wines. A secondary note of toast and roasted cashews too. The palate is medium to full, with high and cleansing acidity framing citrus and green fruits flavours and an enduring mineral spine, leading to a long finish. The wine has well concealed alcohol and while perhaps a tad ripe, is nevertheless a top class new world Chardonnay. Would not be out of place in the Cote de Beaune. Drink 2012 till 2020. (92 points)
37 Comments
Comte de Vogue wines
Comte de Vogue is a name that evokes hushed and reverential responses from the wine cognoscenti. In some circles, de Vogue can be put at the same level as DRC. I had an opportunity to taste a horizontal of 2007 Vogue wines over dinner.

Chambolle Musigny Village 2007
Vibrant medium (-) ruby red. Oaky, creamy nose which required some time to show more sour cherry notes but still dominated by a caramel mocha note, arising from use of new oak. On the palate, evidence of sour and bitter cherries, red plums, some caramel and mocha undertones, nervy med (+) acidity underpins a medium length on finish. Drink 2012 till 2018. (88 points)

Chambolle Musigny  1er Cru 2007

Medium ruby red. Darker cherry profile on the nose, with clove, red cherry and ripe cherry compote followed by a sweaty, savoury topnote. Some cedary notes point to the outh of the wine. The palate has good depth and length, with dark cherry, a sappiness typical of top Burgundy and good mineral notes. Med (+) acidity, dry with a dark, earthy soy finish. A wine made from declassified Musigny vines, below 25 years. The breeding of the wine is clear with that linear long flavour profile of an almost Grand Cru class. Drink 2015 till 2025. (92 points)

Chambolle Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er Cru 2007

Medium bright ruby red. Clunky and closed with woody notes dominant. A muted and closed nose which barely opened up through the night. On the palate there was a core of black cherres with powerful medium (+) slightly chunky surging tannins leading to tastes of dark cherries, dark plums. A wine which is more upfront with good mid palate depth and intensity but perhaps with a tad less elegance and mineral complexity as the normal 1er Cru. Medium bodied with med (+) acidity and a med (+) finish. Drink 2014 till 2025. (90 points)

Chambolle Musigny Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2007

Entering the big leagues now. A medium (+) ruby red intensity. Extra depth of aromas with earthy notes, sprinkled with sweet spice, cloves, cinnamon, red cherry and ripe raspberries, some autumn leafy notes and tong kwai, sweaty, intense entry leading to dry palate of rich dark fruits, cherry compote, dark plums, strapping soft med (+)  tannins and long finish. Stellar balance and impressive length. Drink 2020 till 2030. (93 points)

Musigny Grand Cru 2007

The big one. Dark medium (+) ruby red. More intense liquer like raspberry and cherry notes, floral perfumed, violets, sour cherries, followed by earthy minerals leading to a drying entry on the palate but with an intense mid palate, mouth staining but lithe powdery med (+) tannins, dense mineral core, with a long finish and balanced by vibrant acidity. Some unintegrated cedar notes poking through but a typical Musigny combining elegance with masked power and a lifted floral nose of great lift and verve. Drink 2020 till 2035. (95 points)



38 Comments
Gaja Sori Tildin 1995
Medium ruby red core with some lightening on the rim showing moderate ageing. The nose had dark fruits, mixed with earthy and a touch of game. The mineral notes became more intense with aeration. The palate was medium bodied, laced with dark earth and hints of soy followed by sour plums and dark cherries. The acidity of the wine was well integrated and medium (+) Secondary notes of game and leather became more prevalent with time but was always in harmony with the dark fruited and lead pencil, mineral character of the wine. Impressive. Drink now till 2018. (95 points)
42 Comments
Salon 1997
Still youthful medium (-) yellow core right through the rim. There was a persistent petillance showing in a stream of fine beads. The nose had a citrus cut with a lemon sorbet lift and hints of yeastiness which was always in the background. Little evidence of oak. The palate was dry with arching intensity which was balanced by a citrus lemon range of flavours with some green apples providing further interest. There was an intense mineral core and the finish was long. There is a structure and aristocratic lean to the wine. Deceptively light on its feet but with real breeding. Drinking now till 2025. (93-95 points)
36 Comments
Domaine Etienne Sauzet Batard Montrachet Grand Cru 1999
Medium golden yellow appearance showing some maturity. The nose had a marked mineral concentration fused with a combination of cedar, dried stone fruits and a hint of classy oak. Palate was rich and structured, typical of a Batard, with a dense core of baked apples, dried apricots and pears with well integrated acidity, cedary oaky nuances and a long mineral backbone running through the wine. The finish was long and lingering with elevated flavour intensity. Drink now till 2020. (94 points)
31 Comments
Private Birthday dinner
Billecart Salmon Vintage Brut 1996

A biscuity nose, mineral infused with pretty stone fruits, perfumed with a dash of freshly sliced lemon. On the palate, structured mineral backbone, citrus and green apple add a frsh fruit component leading to a long linear finish. Acidity was high and well integrated. Drink now till 2020. (94 points)


Domaine Leroy Chambertin Grand Cru 1998

My first experience with this wine. One of the most elusive of red burgundies from the enigmatic Lalou Bize Leroy a vintage that is beginning to drink well. What a treat!

Medium ruby red with some bricking. On the nose, fine sprinkling of sweet spice, floral with violets dominating then whiffs of game and savoury notes, forest floor. With more aeration more robust sour plums coming to the fore, but all through, an effusive dense mineral earthy undertow. Highly intense and sappy. Tea leaves as well on the nose. The palate is seamless with medium tannins, soft and velvety. Dark spice, earthy with dark plum and cherry compote. Intense with refreshing acidity leaving a juxtaposition of richness and elegance. Drink now till 2018. (95 points)


Gaja Costa Russi Barbaresco 1996

Medium(+) ruby intensity with some orange tinge, bricking on the edges. The nose is more masculine compared to the Leroy, woith more stemmy and gamey notes and a dominant learthery character which is attractive followed by flavours of  dark plums and black cherry. The palate is framed by gravelly med (+) tannins and infused with earthy notes, cedar and some dark spice with still perceptible high, cleansing acidity on the long finish. Drink now till 2016 (94 points)


Antinori Tignanello 1997

Medium ruby red. Nose has a distincy tea leave and leather character, moderately intense followed by cherries and sa onorous autumnal top note with a whiff of tomato leave. Moderate acidity and mature sour cherries, stewed red plums and earthy and soft medium tannins and a med (+) finish. Mid palate surprisingly hollow which slightly detracts from the overall impression. Nevertheless a mature and enjoyable Sangiovese wine. Drink now till 2014. (91+ points)



47 Comments
Cullen Diana Madeline vertical
This was an opportunity to be guided through a vertical tasting of the flagship wines of Cullen by none other than Vanya Cullen. Vanya is well respected for her intense passion for producing quality wines in her corner of Margaret River. She combines an academic's eye for detail and an artists' passion. She led us through an interesting account on the changes that her vineyards and her wines have undergone in their transition to a biodynamic producer. It is a fascinating account of the various preparations that are required to re-energise the lifeless soil of her vineyards as well as the side story of how the scientific sounding names like preparation 500, 502 and 508 are in fact code names created by the proponent of biodynamics, Rudolf Steiner during Nazi led Germany, as a means to avoid questioning for his beliefs.

What shines through is the utter passion of Vanya, with her commitment to continuous scientific experimentation and thirst for knowledge, all in the pursuit of making the best possible wines. She had succintly refused to categorise her wines as being similar to Bordeaux, simply that it represents a unique terroir driven expression of wines from Margaret River. She did identify a strong sense of minerality in her wines arising from the rich iron stone composition in her vineyards. She also stated a preference for lower alcohol wines to preserve freshness in the fruit composition, an interesting juxtaposition of the increasing trends by Bordelais winemakers in crafting wines of ever higher alcohol levels. 
34 Comments
Mastroberardino Fiano di Avellino 2000
Together with Greco di Tufo, these two form the two noble white grapes of the warm Southern areas of Italy, predominantly in Campania. It is always a wonder that age worthy white wines are produced so far south, near Naples in fact.

The wine had an aged yellow appearance with a muted nose of honeysuckle, dried herbs and peaches. The palate showed medium (-) acidity and some oxidised dried fruit flavours of peaches and apricots with moderate to high alcohol imparting some glycerol to the finish which was short. There was some interesting mineral, saline notes on the finish providing some interest. Clearly a wine past its prime, which should have been drunk about 4 years ago. (84 points)
38 Comments
Tardieu Laurent Cotes du Rhone 2008
Med (+) ruby red intensity. Lifted floral notes of violets, whispers of stone fruits, perhaps some aromatic Viognier blended, raspberry, red plums embellished with savoury gamey notes. The wine is balanced, with vibrant red fruit, raspberries, plums but some aeration revealed some cooked prune characters. The violet component keeps the wine lithe together with medium (+) acidity and high alcohol which was tamed by the slightly chilled serving temperature. The finish was moderately long but left an impression of a well made, pretty red wine. Drink now till 2014. (90 points)
34 Comments
Cloudy Bay Chardonnay 2005
Medium yellow appearance. Some age apparent. The nose has peach, cooked stone fruits and buttery nuances. There was a distinct freshly struck, sulphurous note which did not dissipate. Some excessive SO2? The palate had more backbone of minerals, peaches and baked apples with richer layers added by the oak imparted butterscotch and cream soda. The medium (+) acidity and slightly high, med (+) alcohol ends with a dry, short finish. A wine slight past its prime, surprisingly aged for an 05. Drink now. (87 points)
36 Comments
Terravin Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Medium (-) yellow pale and watery appearance. The nose expresses a leaner, green and more elegant persona of Marlborough SB, more fresh vegetal notes, fresh green peas. capsicum, nettles and unripe passionfruit. Some crushed chalk adds a mineral dimension. The palate is suffused by mineral notes with green attractive herbal flavours, capsicum, unripe pineapple, passionfruit in a dry and austere yet attractively fresh style with well concealed medium alcohol and with crystalline high acidity adding a nice cut to the finish. Drink now till 2014. (90 points)
41 Comments
Gralyn Shiraz Cabernet 1999
Medium (+) ruby core with some bricking on the edges. The nose had some mineral truffle notes with red plum and cassis. There was a distinct menthol, leathery note as well. The palate echoed the savoury notes of the nose, with mint mixed in. There was a hollow mid palate showing that the Shiraz had not fleshed out the wine. Perhaps more Cabernet dominant? The acidity was medium, with some foret floor, vegetal notes and a dominant leathery character to the wine. An interesting wine showing secondary notes with some muted red cherry and red plum flavours framing the wine. A cool climate style of Aussie wine which is just a tad past it. Drink now. (89 points)
0 Comments
Craggy Crange Tasting
Craggy Range is a wine producer centred in Hawke's Bay, New Zealand with an impressive range of wines in its portfolio with a philosophy of sourcing grapes from the very best regions all over New Zealand. One of the founders of the winery is Steve Smith MW, so certainly there is a hint of the professionalism and drive behind the philosophy of this winery. The cornerstone wines of the winery are the Merlot blends from Hawke's Bay as well as the Pinot Noirs and Sauvignon Blancs from Martinborough.

Craggy Range Fletcher Family Vineyard Riesling 2008

Youthful bright yellow in appearance. An initially fresh citrus zing on the nose followed by freshly cut grass, hay and grapefruit. The palate is mineral driven with a high dry extract of citrus flavours and lemon rind. Acidity is high and the wine is made in a dry style with a medium finish. Drink now till 2014. (88 points)

Craggy Range Wild Rock Sauvignon Blanc 2009

A nose of nettles, lemon, grapefruit, capsicum and some unripe passionfruit. This leads to a palate of honeysuckle, nettles, bellpepper with high acidity, med alcohol and a medium + finish. A dry and leaner style of Sauvignon Blanc, alluding more to the Loire than to NZ. (88 points)

Craggy Range Te Muna Sauvignon Blanc 2009

Mineral notes, restrained aromas of lemon rind, grassy notes and green capsicum. There are some oaky vanillin notes from the use of partial fermentation in secondary oak barrels. The palate has a chalky mouthfeel, with high acidity and again muted but latent citrus and grapefruit. 4 months lees ageing accounts for the mineral, leesy hints. A wine with some class, requiring some bottle age to show more of its undoubted potential. Drink 2011 till 2016. (88-90 points)

Craggy Range Wild Rock Pinot Noir 2008
Medium (-) ruby red core and a watery youthful rim. Aromas of cherry and strawberries with some sweet spice and slight lifted medium alcohol. Flavours of sweet spice, dark cherries, red berries, med (+) acidity but some bitter notes on the back palate detracts a little on the finish. Med (-) tannins. Drink now till 2014. (87 points)


Craggy Range Te Muna Pinot Noir 2008

Medium purple ruby core, noticeably darker than the Wild Rock with a watery rim. The nose has sweaty, savoury notes intermixed with ripe dark cherries and raspberry compote. There is more new oak, adding a lusher mouthfeel and medium tannins. Musky dark spice core. Acidity is a little submerged behind the lush fruit but the finish is still fresh and long. A wine of class which needs time to show more of the attractive forest floor, savoury notes evident in the wine. Drink 2012 till 2018.
(91 points)

Craggy Range Wild Rock Gravel Pit Merlot Malbec 2007

Medium (+) ruby red with a lighter rim. The nose had cranberry, dark plum and blackberries with med (+) alcohol. Chocolate notes, dark plum and dark spicy notes. The mid palate has some bitter notes with medium (+) alcohol leading to a medium finish. There were some herbal notes that showed with some aeration as well. Drink now till 2014. (88 points)


37 Comments
Joseph Roty Gevrey Chambertin Brunelle 2006
Youthful medium ruby red core with a watery rim. Nose of fresh red cherries and some strawberry notes followed by some sweet spice notes. The palate shows good savoury sappiness on the mouthfeel with some darker cherry notes intermixed with fresh red fruits and red plums. The acidity of the wine keeps the wine fresh and lithe, coated with soft medium (-) tannins and a moderate finish. Drink 2012 till 2016. (89 points)
35 Comments
Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier 2008
Medium + ruby red intensity with a watery rim. Certainly not a heavyweight from the appearance. The nose was fragrant with violets, musk and floral notes dominating a nose of red fruits and sweet spice. A more elegant style with hints of stone fruits even. The palate was medium weight, with the same musky and sweet spice profile as well as a floral elegance, fine supple tannins and medium + acidity, keeping the wine fresh. The palate had red currants and red cherries, showing the more feminine, Northern Rhone style of this wine. The finish was medium + and soft. Drink now till 2018. (91 points)
34 Comments
Krug Grand Cuvee NV
Still a youthful looking light golden colour with persistent and fine petillance. The nose had freshly cut, lemon rind and citrus nuances. There was a touch of brioche and yeasty nuance. The palate was light and balanced, with a clean cut of acidity that draws the wine together. There is also very well integrated cedary and savoury oak, a hallmark of Krug due to its barrel fermentation. There is dominance of clean lemon and lime zest with some exotic notes of tangerine which are intense and lingering. A very well balanced champagne that is deceptively light on its feet but with impressive depth and length.
32 Comments
Penfold's Shiraz Masterclass
With many of the great wines of the world, terroir is a recurrent theme that arises to attribute the singularly and almost mythical secret behind the uniqueness of these wines. My recent visit to Burgundy highlighted the very extreme of this concept of terroir, that a winemaker is merely a custodian, husbanding the fruits of the land in the form of grapes through the various winemaking interventions and finally into the bottle. Bordeaux represented a hybrid of the concept of terroir subsumed behind the power of the brand. It is a more obscure fact for instance that a First Growth chateau may purchase a piece of land which used to be long to say a Fifth Growth chateau and in an instant, this previously good but not great parcel of land is elevated immediately to the ranks of a top quality piece of land. Quite a remarkable sleight of hand which debunks all the historic and painstaking system of the integrity and uniqueness of each parcel of prime vineyard land.

Anyway, moving on from the concept of terroir and how the prestige of a particular wine from a particular producer is bound by the potential of the land it is sourced from, comes the diametrically opposite concept of an ultra premium wine sourced from varying terroirs year to year. A quite shocking state of affairs if applied to the old world. Of course the wine we are talking about is Penfold's Grange.
It is an anomaly of sorts in the world of fine wine in that Grange can be sourced from a bewildering array of vineyards scattered all over South Australia. The core of the blend always comes from the Barossa, contributing rippling dark plummy fruit and musky sweet spice while some McLaren Vale contributes some chocolate nuances. Some Cabernet Sauvignon may be added to provide more presence and structure with some floral notes perhaps. The recipe for Grange is always the same and the powers that be in Penfold's simply choose the right constituents from different vineyards each vintage, to form this venerable wine. This is akin to a winemaker in Bordeaux deciding that he wants a core of Cabernet fruit from Pauillac to provide structure and depth, added with a dash of Cabernet from Graves for finesse and minerality and then topped up by some Merlot from Pomerol for some mid palate depth and richer plummy notes. Unthinkable in Bordeaux but perfectly accepted as gospel for Grange.

Moving on now, I recently attend the Penfold's Shiraz Masterclass conducted by Jamie Sach one of the ambassadors for this venerable Australian brand. It was fascinating to be reminded that Penfold's truly does have such a rich heritage to match any of the old world stalwarts of the wine world. Perhaps its lustre has dimmed since its apogee in the 1990s, culminating in the stellar vintages of 1996 and 1998 in elevating the wines of Penfold's to ever greater heights. It must be said that many of the problems faced by Penfold's is a result more of a swing against Australian wines rather than any obvious drop in quality.

Anyway it was like getting acquainted with old friends when we were led on a tasting of the major Shiraz wines in the Penfold's stable. The notes are below:

Bin 128 2008
Purple dark hues within a medium ruby red core. There was an alcoholic lift with plum, mint, spice and a floral violet component on the nose followed by a medium bodied and balanced palate where the alcohol was integrated well. The oak was at the background allowing bright red plum and red berry flavours to come to the fore, framed with soft medium tannins.Length was moderate. Drink now till 2018. (90 points)

Bin 28 2007
Dark ruby red with a purple core. Sweet dark fruit, cloves and toasty vanillin oak and chocolate notes on the nose. Tannins a little extracted and clunky with cedar and dark plums on the palate. Alcohol was a tad high. A robust Bin 28 without the depth of flavour expected of a Bin 28. Drink now till 2018. (88 points)

St Henri 2006
Dark ruby red, deep musky plummy aromas, pastille like notes and dark bitter chocolate. Wine had medium (+) alcohol, tannins were soft and med (+) as well with dark plum, cloves and moderately long finish. A typically elegant wine with a savoury mouthfeel and little oak influence. Drink 2012 till 2020. (91 points)

Magill Estate 2007
Dark opaque purple appearance. Spiritey nose, ripe fruit cake aromas, cedar, clove and cream with dark chocolate and licorice rounding it off. Powerful on the palate, with a robust structure, cedary oak, sweet spice, dark berries with surprisingly soft medium (+) tannins and integrated alcohol. Some developed sour plum notes developing. Drink now till 2022.  (91 points)

RWT 2007
Purple dark ruby. Spicy cedary nose with some cassis and dark plums a bright raspberry floral character, indicative of more cool climate Shiraz fruit perhaps. Balanced dark plum and dark cherry with supple tannins and high but balanced alcohol. Indian spice adds interest to the finish. Drink 2014 till 2025. (92 points)

Grange 2005
Opaque, dark purple with ruby red hints on the rim. Sweet coconut aggresive oak on the nose allied with classic sour plum and ascorbic acid. Some orange rind complexity with some exotic sweet spice notes. This leads to a palate which is full bodied with some disjointed glycerol but a complex pallette of blueberry, dark plum, cedar and sweet vanillin notes. There is typically great depth of flavour and a long lingering finish which is freshened with just enough acidity to not leave an impression of portiness. A good but not great Grange. Still a very good wine. Drink 2018 till 2030. (94 points)

My question to Jamie at the end of the session was an issue that I have been concerned about over the past few years, namely how does Penfold's maintain its access to premium quality old vine Shiraz grapes that so underpins the depth of flavour of Grange? His answer was twofold. The first was that he intimated that Penfold's was securing its own estate owned premium quality fruit with new plantings in highly regarded sites within the Barossa Valley. Secondly they were deepening their links with the existing network of grape growers across South Australia and creating a club especially for growers whose fruit was selected for Grange as a token to appreciation. They however are only allowed to stay in this club for 3 years unless their grapes are chosen to blended into Grange within 3 years. A rather competitive state of affairs. and the very high prices paid for top quality fruit seals the deal. There is undeniable prestige for a grower to have his or her grapes chosen to blended into Grange in any year and Penfold's has decided that this is the best way to keep growers on their toes and never letting viticultural standards dip. This is a wise move to secure access to such rare and more importantly old vine material which is so hard to replace and yet ensuring that the incentive to grow the best grapes always remains.
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Blind tastings
Blind tastings are naturally seen as the best avenue to judge wines and indeed what could be more instrumental in levelling off the playing field of preconceived notions than a line up of completely blind wines? Carrying on from this, the semi-blind format of tasting is another variation on a theme. This essentially involves a set line up of wines which are known but the wines are presented blind. As a taster the question thus changes from asking what is the wine to what is the wine within the context of the wines that are already known. While it may be easy to assume on the one hand that it would be easier to guess the identity of a particular from say a 40 wine line up rather than guessing completely blind, it is not always so. Sometimes the permutations that go through our head as we assess wine by wine can be more beguiling.

For instance, we may look out for what we identify as key characters be it on the nose or palate of a particular wine. This in itself is an exercise fraught with hazards. However through constant repetitive tasting of a particular wines, I know from personal experience that is possible to store a key flavour component or more likely in my case aroma which sets the wine apart. For me Grange always has this lifted volatile alcohol on the nose and a unique combination of ascorbic acid and sour plum. This is an instinctive approach to tasting which works for many people. I used to happily adopt this methodology during blind tastings in my more carefree days.

Being an MW student naturally does change the way I approach things. Gone is the more intuitive way of tasting and in comes a more measured, methodical and analytical manner of tasting. During the course one is introduced to the concept of a grid system, where we break down wines into various basic components like sweetness, acidity, tannin profile, alcohol, body, flavours and length sometimes. In this manner, we attempt to take away any subjective colouring arising from an intuitive approach to a more objective, albeit certainly less romantic manner of tasting wine. The keyword here I suppose really is that the exercise in any MW tasting exam is to evaluate a wine, not so much to enjoy the wine. When we are given a little over 10 minutes to evaluate a wine, there really is no other way. One cannot trust our memory frantically picking up key flavours in our memory bank of tasting experiences and hope for the best. With a grid system, it is a way to objectively compare wines based on acidity (alluding to warm or cool climate origin/ vintage), alcohol (Again pointing the climactic make up of a particular region), flavour profile (certain fruits flavours are necessarily linked with certain varietals or blends as well as age factors) tannins(pointing to grape variety/ vintage conditions and age), sweetness (relating to perhaps winemaking approaches to harvesting times and fermentation lengths) and the list goes on. So you see, it really is necessary, as the famous saying within MW circles are, "To taste like a detective and to argue like a lawyer"

Anyhow, back to the point of this discussion of blind and semi blind tastings was that I had attended a grand tasting of Bordeaux 2005 wines as well as Barolo 2004s in Singapore 2 weeks ago. The line up was extensive and impressive and the wines were served semi blind, namely that we were given the list of wines that would be served but not the order of service.

The tasting notes of the various wines will follow.
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Commune of Margaux tastings
Pavillon Blanc du Chateau Margaux 2009 (90 - 91 points)
This was made from 100% Sauvignon Blanc. The nose has cedar, melon, pears and leading to a palate which is textured and rich, off dry with ripe apricots, savoury spice notes which add interest to the wine. The acidity is a medium (-), showing the warm growing conditions. A wine to drink in the short to medium term. Tasted blind this wine may not have come across as a pure Sauvignon Blanc, would have expected some Muscadelle. Not a great Pavillon but still a well made enjoyable wine.

Pavillon Rouge du Chateau Margaux 2009 (92 - 93 points)
Pure cassis nose and fragrant violets leading to a silky palate with dark cherries providing more interest.Very smooth and fine medium (+) tannins, cassis and red currants. Medium (+) length and very approachable even now.

Chateau Margaux 2009
(96 - 98 points)
Drawing from the Pavillon stylistically but elevating all aspects of the wine to a higher level, with a intense yet fine and powerful nose of cassis, violets , raspberries and floral notes, with some lingering mineral thrills. Palate is tigher than the second wine, with still fine and lithe high tannins and great flavour complexity of cedar, red and black fruits and floral nuances. Slightly creamy mouthfeel and a long lingering length. Impressively managing to fuse a velvety rich yet elegant mouthfeel with layers upon layers of flavours which continue to titillate the taste buds for minutes. Bravo!

Chateau Desmirail 2009 (89 - 91 points)
Mocha, plum, prune and cassis on the nose with strong but fully ripe tannins. There is a mineral, chalky note on the nose. Palate is savoury with cherry and plum fruit leading to a medium finish with agreeable but not exceptional flavour complexity. A pleasant wine.

Chateau Rausan Gassies 2009 (87 - 89 points)
Good red fruit characters on the wine but the tannins were slightly coarse and dominant at this moment. The fruit is very subdued and there is a feeling that the tannins which are overextracted will struggle to come into balance with the fruit.

Chateau Brane Cantenac
(89 - 91 points)
Leafy, capsicum notes with cassis and blackberries rounding off. Tannins are a little rough astringent with acidity a little high and unbalanced against the red currant and cherry flavours of the wine which are nevertheless ripe and intense. Medium finish.

Chateau Cantenac Brown
(90 -92 points)
Perfumed violets and cassis nose. Some extracted grainy tannins which were primary but with good black fruits similar to the nose. Med (+) finish.

Chateau Siran 2009 (88 - 90 points)
Closed nose but mocha, plum and cassis discernible. Tannins are still hard and elevated. The fruit is set very much in the background and some capsicum notes are evident on the palate. Minerality is good. A little hard to evaluate now due to the tannins.


Chateau Dauzac 2009 (90 - 92 points)
Cedar and toast dominate the nose but followed by good persistence of red fruits, ripe cassis, cloves cloaked by still primary but fully ripe and soft tannins.

Chateau Rausan Gassies 2009 (87-89 points)
Nose was subdued. Palate showed green, vegetal and capsicum notes and elevated grainy tannins. Acidity was med (+) with cassis and blackberries flavours leading to a medium finish.

Chateau Kirwan 2009 (91 - 93 points)
Ripe plum, cherry and blackcurrants dominate the nose with cedary notes in the background. Tannic but as with many of the better wines, round and ripe with a savoury mouthfeel dominated by cherries and plums. Oak well handled and very well integrated on the intense palate.  

Chateau Du Tertre 2009 (89 - 91 points)
A muscular wine for a Margaux with grainy grippy tannins with ripe cassis plum flavours. Toasty notes are also evident and some evidence of high toast caramel notes. Finish is medium.

Chateau Malescot St Exupery 2009
(91 - 93 points)
Attractive perfumed nose of ripe plum, kirsch, floral violets and some cherry compote. Intense flavours of vivid red fruits, cassis and firm but supple and ripe tannins lead to a long lingering finish. Oak is well integrated and acidity is med (+)

Chateau Giscours 2009
(91-92)
A very ripe nose of essence of cassis, dark morello cherries and cedary notes. Tannic and powerful with a milky textural mouthfeel, perhaps arising from malolactic fermentation. Flavours of cassis, plums and raspberries dominate and the acidity of the wine is high leading to a medium (+) finish.


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Bordeaux En Primeur 2009 musings
The buzz that has been building En Primeur 2009 proved to be largely true, though as with all hype there is a certain degree of caution in applying such a broad brush in sprinkling vinuous gold dust across the board with all wines. The tastings across all communes reveals that the stars performers were from the Left Bank communes of St Estephe, St Julien and that heavyweight that towers above them all, Pauillac. Pomerols displayed impressive structure with ripe tannins and lush but not overripe fruit, wonderful wines. Graves underperformed for me and Margaux wines showed signs of over-extraction with Chateaus perhaps trying too hard, though the star wine of the vintage for me was it's flagship, Chateau Margaux.

The three Left bank communes of St Estephe, St Julien and Pauillac produced wines which were deceptively accessible even at this infant stage, most with ripe, round tannins, ripe but generally not over-ripe fruit, good underlying acidity which was sometimes difficult to evaluate due to the lush fruits. I was continually impressed when tasting wine after wine from these communes at the uniformity of the quality of the wines from the giants of the First growths to the lesser lights of these communes. It truly was a vintage where the winemaker had little to do except to allow the grapes to be vinified with minimal intervention to allow the natural qualities of the grapes to show themselves. No gilded manipulations in the vineyard or cellars were needed.

Trends

One trend which shows no sign of abating is that the stylistic change that Bordeaux continues to undergo. While undoubtedly there were many impressive wines from 2009, the movement towards riper and sweeter fruits in the wines and rounder and softer tannins continues. For example, Lascombes displayed its characteristic rich brambly sweet cassis signature of recent vintages. Purists of Bordeaux from days gone by in the 80s and before will continue to question the direction and ultimate style of Bordeaux that will be produced. I personally found that there was sufficient balance and potential secondary nuances that will develop from these youthful wines. The mineral complexity and depth which defines many Bordeaux wines remains and generally acid levels were sufficient.

An interesting side note was the determination amongst some producers to go down the organic and eventually the biodynamic path. It was a fascinating juxtaposition for me to have just arrived in Bordeaux from Burgundy and to see how almost every major domaine in Burgundy has embraced biodynamic viticultural practices while in Bordeaux there is hardly any mention of organic let alone biodynamic practices. This is simple attributed to the much smaller parcel of vineyards that are tended to in Burgundy which suits the more laborious and painstaking processes involved in biodynamic viticulture. The climate in Bordeaux being more humid and more wet is another undoubted factor. Having said this, Chateau Pontet Canet nearly turned biodynamic last year but had to spray during the difficult 2007 vintage. This will be the only concession and word has it that for the 2011 vintage, this Chateau will be the first classed chateau to be certified biodynamic. The suitability of this almost mystical practice for Bordeaux remains an open topic and requiring much greater analysis, best left for a different time.

Prices

This remains another huge question for everyone in the trade in all channels and right down to the consumer who is wondering whether this is a vintage to buy, to invest or to stay away from. What is not in doubt is that release prices will be higher than 2008, in fact significantly higher. The big question on everyone's lips is will it surpass 2005? Many negociants I spoke to were cautious in making guesses but when pushed most said it will open just below the 2005 pricing to reflect the still weak global economy. Of course there is always such a fine line to determine what is the reaction of the market in such uncertain times. The lessons of 2008 was that when there was value perceived by the market, demand will follow no matter how weak the global economy. I have a sneaky feeling that after being caught out last year in underpricing their wines and also releasing too early, the producers will be far more confident to be in the front seat this year. The pratice of releasing wines in tranches will allow chateaus to likely release smaller first tranche quantities to gauge the market sentiment before loading up with bigger second and third tranche releases.

The big unknown is how the sizeable Chinese contingent will react to purchasing en primeur for the first time in any significant way. Of course this is predicated on the translation of the many Chinese buyers I saw at the tastings to solid sales. My feeling is that Chinese buyers will be significant only with the really famous names, Lafite and Carruades is a given but perhaps there will be some interest in the other First growths and some super seconds. The London trade was there is full force as well and purchases will be brisk but perhaps tempered with the sober economic climate and weak pound. Similar sentiments would apply to the US buyers. My take is that the First growths and Super Seconds will come out close to the 2005 prices but there will be some good buys with the consistently well priced wines like Leoville Barton, Lynch Bages and perhaps Montrose.

Lastly, the weak Euro should normally be factor in encouraging interest. However most other major currencies like the US Dollar and Pound remain similarly weak. The currency feelgood factor will likely impact more on the potential Chinese buyers. Of course ultimately, the fact that half the purchase prices would have to be settled for in 2 years time is another big unknown vis a vis the the strength of the Euro then.
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Joly Coulee de Serrant 2006

This is the flagship wine for this arch proponent of biodynamic producers together with Olivier Humbrecht MW. This wine is made from 100% Chenin Blanc and my travels around France was defined by my attempts at all wine shops from Reims, Bordeaux, Beaune and finally Paris  to locate a single bottle of this rare and singularly unique wine. Imagine my relief when I finally found it at the purportedly oldest wine shop in Paris, Auge. I simply wanted to see for myself how the most famous biodynamic wine would taste like.

Golden yellow appearance, belying its youthfulness. The nose has an intriguing and very unusual aroma of baked apple, oxidised sherry like notes, then ripe apricots, melons and lemon peel. Impression of premature oxidisation, fresh hay. Some late harvest honeyed notes and a high alcoholic lift. On the palate, it was dry, with rich tropical notes, apricots and baked apples and pears. The acidity was high, allied with high alcohol and a luscious texture. Akin to a sweet wine but with a dry palate. The sherry like oxidised fruit continued on the palate, similar to an old Hunter Semillon with savoury mineral notes. I wanted to let the wine breath. 2 hours later, the nose remained the same but with more bitter lemon skins and some bitter pips. Oxidised note remained with a more waxy character. The palate was largely the same but the finish remains persistent with high flavour intensity. This is a perplexing wine which seems on appearance and on the nose to have oxidised partially yet there are some interesting facets to it, very high flavour intensity, complex flavours of fruit and waxy lanolin like characters. Drink now till 2015. (88 points)
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Burgundy 2008 and Bordeaux 2009 review
The past two weeks have been spent visiting the two foremost wine regions in the vocabulary of any wine lover, namely Burgundy and Bordeaux. In the process, I have tasted about 700 wines, mainly from the 2008 Burgundy vintage and the much vaunted 2009 Bordeaux en primeur campaign. I will post my notes progressively due to the mammoth amount of notes scribbled. (It does get less legible later in the day so allow me some time to reorder them).
Seeing that there is massive anticipation for the 2009 Bordeauxs I can confirm that it will be an outstanding vintage, but selectively for certain communes, namely, Pomerol, St Julien, Pauillac and St Estephe. Other communes were a little mixed with some outstanding wines and some extracted wines with green tannins, a case of trying to hard perhaps. The buzz on the ground here in Bordeaux is that 2005 is much trotted out as a vintage of comparison. There is another group who lean towards the 2000 vintage as a more approximate yardstick. I agree with the latter, in that the 2009s have more vibrancy and freshness and less ripe fruit which is actually a positive. The ultimate scenario is simply a perfectly ripe, well balanced and fresh vintage with structure yet poise and elegance for the reds. The whites however suffered from lower acidity, possessing ripe tropical fruit notes, making for an early drinking, attractive vintage. To summarise, careful appraisal is required to decide on the best wines since there are numerous outstanding examples. A commune based approach will help of course but in even the weaker communes, there are some stars.
On another note, do look out for the 2009 Burgundies, many domaines indicate that this year will rival the great 2002 vintage, with the reds coming out stronger than the whites. In typically understated Burgundian fashion, there is just a quiet confidence with many top producers, no hype, just the typical insiders twinkle of an eye whenever the topic of the prospects of the 2009 vintage crops up. 
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Champagne Bollinger visit

Entrance to the Bollinger Caves



The first Clos (Walled vineyard) of more than a
century old Pinot Noir vines lying dormant in early spring
.
The hills of Montage de Reims are in the background



The second Clos with stakes kept neatly for use
as support when the vines bud



Bottles being riddled in the pupitres in the underground caves


Century old Burgundy barrels (228L) being repaired by the
cooper in the only house in Champagne



Old dormant Champagne press


The guest book


The Rose NV
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Riedel Masterclass with Mr Georg Riedel

The Riedel Philosophy


Endorsement from the Big Man


The glasses


Enthralled audience


Not everyday you get poured a glass of wine by the owner of the most prestigious glass producer in the world
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Vega Sicilia Dinner

The Menu


The venue and winemaker



Mr Xavier Ausas, Chief winemaker of Bodegas Vega Sicilia and Mr Roderick Hull, Europvin representative


The wines


 




The Food
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Sequillo Cellars White 2006
Bright medium yellow core with thick legs, indicating possible elevated alcohol. Nose confirms lifted alcohol with starfruit, grapefruit, citrus and honeysuckle with some honey notes. Alcohol while med (+) is integrated with rich off dry flavours of apricots, starfruits again, apricots and whiffs of honeyed notes. coupled with nettly pineapple notes. Acidity is med (-) with good length and intensity. Mjust be served chilled to dampen alcoholic exuberance but complex and unique. Drink now till 2014. (90 points)
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Grosset Polish Hill Riesling 2008
Bright pale yellow core with a watery rim. Aromas of citrus, unripe pineapples, slate and lemon peel dominate with just a hint of petrol apparent. Palate has laser sharp precision with high acidity which is well integrated, matched by high flavours of citrus, lemon peel and pineapples which build and broaden out after the precise palate entry. The finish echoes with bright ,lithe gurgling citrus fruit. The nose and palate reflect an essence like liquer mineral element. Complex, coiled and restrained now, yet a wine with class and breeding. Drink now till 2020. (92 points)
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Domaine Emmanuel Rouget Vosne Romanee 2002
Ruby red medium intensity. The nose was impressive for a village wine, with sour berries, ripe cherries intermixed with undergrowth, minerals and an attractive leafiness. The wine had a well balanced medium (-) body with a good balance of savoury leafy nuances blending with ripe cherry and deep strawberry flavours, liquerlike in intensity yet never cloying. Fine acidity, soft savoury tannins and a medium (+) finish. A masterpiece of balance and elegance. Drink now till 2016. (91 points)
 
36 Comments
Domaine de la Janasse Vieilles Vignes 1994
Bricking garnet on the edges with a ruby red core. A nose which had secondary notes of hay, mint, a whiff of ripe raspberries which were soft and perfumed and savoury, gamey notes. Flavours of soft raspberries, cherries, leafy notes and bacon fat with soft medium acidity and seamless tannins. A example of a well aged, old style CdP with great balance and a melange of aged savoury characters which were compelling and enduring. Commented that this wine was Gevrey like in weight both on the nose and palate, lacking only the higher acidity of a Pinot. Rayas like or even better was another comment. Drink now till 2014. (94 points)
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Chateau Beaucastel Vieilles Vignes Blanc 1998
Deep golden yellow indicating some age. Intense aromas of candied stone fruits, dried apricots, nettles, honey and orange peel. The palate is oily and broad with dried apricots, orange peel with med (+) alcohol requiring chilling to be reined in. The acidity was low, typical of a warm year. A wine to drink now with classic high alcohol, low acid combination of a Southern Rhone white but with impressive length and complexity nevertheless. Fruits are drying out. Drink now till 2013. (90 points)
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Chateau St Cosme Cotes du Rhone 2008

A medium (+) intense ruby red core and a watery youthful rim. The nose had sweet black pepper and spice, mainly red plum and red fruits. The palate was soft with medium acidity, moderate and rustic tannins with flavours of raspberries, red plums and some earthy mineral notes. Finish was medium and satisfying. Initially thought there was Grenache but essentially a medium bodied blend of Syrah from different sites. Drink now till 2015. (90 points)
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Cono Sur Ocio Pinot Noir 2007
Vibrant light medium ruby red colour with a watery rim. The nose was initially muted with notes of black cherries with a pastille candy like note. This sweet cherry character became more obvious with breathing, mixed with red fruits, mainly raspberries. The palate was medium (-) with moderate acidity and fine savoury medium (-) tannins. The palate needed 30 minutes to flesh out with similar red fruit cherry pastile character followed by sour cherry notes and some sweet spice on the moderate finish. Alcohol was medium (+) but integrated. Needs more time to develop savoury secondary nuances. Drink 2012 till 2016. (89 - 90 points)
47 Comments
Dominus Napanook 1996
Slight browning on the edges showed the age of the wine but the core remained a dark ruby red. The wine was decanted and the aroma was mineral driven with lead pencil dominating. The fruit was predominantly red fruit with muted cassis. The overall intensity on the nose was impressive. The palate however showed a marked doughnut effect, with red and blackcurrants notes and a savoury mineral finish, providing some interest .There was a vegetal and herbal note on the finish. The wine needed time to open up and was intitially hard and closed. After an hour there was a marked improvement in the taste with more complex red fruit flavours and the angular tannic edges softened to reveal a wine of more charm and finesse. The finish was moderate and the flavour intensity was medium as well. A classic example of how Dominus manages to be Bordeaux like even though hailing from Napa. Ultimately not one of the better Dominus wines I have had from a difficult year. Lacking the fruit of a great vintage. Drink now till 2016. (89 points)
34 Comments
Feudo Maccari Saia 2006

100% Nero d'Avola. A still youthful dark ruby core. The nose was initially oak dominated with freshly shaved cedary nuances. After decanting, it opened up to reveal more balsam, black olive and dark cherry notes on the nose followed by a medium weight, moderately intense but fruity taste of dark and red cherries, black olives and a slight impression of savoury salt. Tannins are lithe and moderate with medium well integrated acidity. A slight bitter nutty note at the end did not detract from the impression of a well made,  if youthful Sicilian wine. Drink 2011 to 2018. (90 points)
38 Comments
Green Point Chardonnay 2007
Bright green sheen to the wine which is clearly youthful. On nose nicely lifted green fruit spectrum of flavours with apples, melons and honeysuckle dominating. Savoury cedary oak is apparent but soft and integrated. The palate follows the nose with apples, pears and green melon flavours with some herbacious notes followed by soft oak which is freshened by the medium (+) acidity and moderate alcohol, which only becomes more apparent as the wines warms up. Drink now till 2016. (90 points) 
36 Comments
Newton Unfiltered Merlot 2005
A medium ruby red with slight lighter tints on the rim. Spicy cedar and lifted and bright red berry fruit, cedar and red plums on the nose. The wine has moderate acidity and moderate, fine and coating tannins which provide a sense of structure to the wine which remains lithe and generously flavoured with a spectrum of red berries and ripe red plums. There is well integrated cedary oak, medium + and unobtrusive alcohol and a medium (+) finish. Drink now till 2016. (91 points) 
 
39 Comments
Penfolds 707 Cabernet Sauvignon 1998

Ripe red currant nose mixed with some black olive and plum notes. Ascorbic and sweet vanilla and coconut with some mocha notes. Some browning on the edges and a dull ruby red core. Classic palate of red cassic mixed with plums and sweet vanilling cedary spice. Soft medium tannins, resolving well and a long finish. Acidity is med (-). Earthy and tobacco flavours embellish the palate. Slightly less impressive complexity. A classic 707 at its peak now. Drink now till 2018. (91 points)
50 Comments
Almaviva 2003

Dark ruby red with little lightening on the rim. Nose of black berries and blackcurrants. Some deep dark spicy notes and cloves but some burnt rubber notes detract slightly with time indicating slight overextraction but not unpleasant. Smoky notes also prevalent on the nose and palate. Tastes just a little off dry, full bodied and intense with rich but rounded velvety tannins and flavours of blackberries, prunes blackcurrants and earthy notes. Long finish. Drink 2015 till 2025. (92 points)
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Chateau Margaux 2004
Soft and fragrant, classically Margaux elegance. Medium to full weight on the palate, intense cassis, some red berries and sour cherry notes. Smoky with a pencil shaving whiff and a earthy touch. The nose is fragrant with rose petal and cassis. Minerals are coming to the fore 5 hours after decanting. The wine is impeccably balanced, dry with a deceptively light medium palate weight, fine well integrated tannins and a long length. Tannins are fine and lacy. Drink 2016 to 2030. (94 points)
32 Comments
Catena Zapata Tikal Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 1996
This is wine which I had stowed away in the darkest recesses of my wine chiller only for me to chance upon it with delight recently. Still a dark ruby red core with some lightening on the edges belying its 14 years of age. The nose was intense and lifted with dark currants, blunerries, earthy and mineral notes dominating with the cedary oak very much in the background though still prevalent The palate was impressive and youthful still, with grainy medium + tannins which have not full resolved. It is full bodied with cassis, bitter chocolate and black berries as well as a notes of lead pencil and dark earth. It is a dry wine enhanced by superb fruit sweetness with an old world minerality and new world pastille like fruit sweetness. Drink 2012 to 2025. (93 points)
36 Comments
Villa Cafaggio San Martino 1999
Still a youthful medium ruby red colour with just a touch of brown tints on the rim. There was noticeable sediment in the wine. The nose was initially closed with some dark berry notes but after 30 minutes there was a noticeably more expressive nose of mocha, sweet spice dark cherry and berries. There was also some ripe tomato skin notes, classically Sangiovese. The wine which was closed initially similarly opened up to reveal flavours of balsam, some dried herbs and again, lush rich dark cherry and berry characters. The palate was impressively round and generous with good flavour intensity and soft moderate tannins which was well integrated. Acidity was moderate and kept the wine from being too rich from the still vibrant fruit. An impressive example of a well made IGT as compared to many less impressive examples in the market nowdays. Drink now till 2015. (92 points)
43 Comments
Mourvedre tasting session
In planning my latest tasting with my wine group, I had the usual choices of varietal or regional tastings. Having decided some months ago to explore new frontiers both for my Masters of Wine preparation and for interests sake, I decided to plan a predominantly Mourvedre tasting. To this end, I had sourced 2 bottles each from the well regarded Domaine Tempier and Domaine Pradeaux estates in Bandol. In it I also added in a red herring a Grenache/ Mourvedre blend from the Eden Valley in South Australia. I wanted to discern what if any signature flavours that would enable a Mourvedre grape to be identified within a blind context. Admittedly I should have included a Mataro based wine perhaps from Alicante or Jumilla in Spain but could not find one in time. So it was with 4 Bandols and 1 Aussie that I proceeded with the tasting. Bear in mind that Mourvedre also masquerades as Mataro in Spain and sometimes in Australia as well.

The tastings notes are below:


A domaine that has started to shine again in recent years and it is an intriguing domaine which shows different site specific Bandol wines with different characters.

Wine 1: Domaine Tempier Cabassou 1993

This wine showed the best on the night. The wine was a medium ruby red with clear lightening on the edges. The nose was lifted and fragrant with red cherries and berries, leather, some game and smoke as well as a dried tea leaf note. The palate was medium bodied with similar secondary notes of red cherries, cedar, herbs and some leather. The mouthfeel was soft with medium minus tannins which were fine and a medium finish. Acidity was also firmly in the background, medium (-). Drink now till 2015. (91 points)


Wine 2: Domaine Tempier La Miguoua 1993

Colour similarly ruby red with some garnet tints. The wine was more closed with more dark spice, leather and game notes. Fruit was mainly a mixture of red and black cherries and some red currants. It tasted medium bodied, with soft leafy notes, dried herbs, teal eaves and red berries in play. It showed more minerality compared to the Cabassou. The tannins were medium (+) but fine and velvety providing good structure to the wine. Only a slightly hollow mid palate and slightly high acidity detracted from a better impression. Drink now till 2018. (90 points)


 

Hutton Vale is a winery off the beaten track even to lovers of South Australian wines. This could be due to a combination of the private nature of the owners, John and Jan Angas and their reluctance to allow their wines to be reviewed. The winery is located near its homestead over many acres of bucolic Eden Valley hills. Another interesting fact is that they used to own the famed Mt Edelstone vineyard and indeed, their current 40+ year old Shiraz vineyard is planted from graftings taken off the Mt Edelstone vineyard itself, so pedigree is good.

Wine 3: Hutton Vale Grenache Mataro 2001

This wine should have been the easiest to pick out because of the Grenache dominant component and indeed it was picked up quite quickly by G Man, my Grenache expert. The new wood component of sweet vanillin and upfront fruit profile of sweet raspberry and red berries confirm the Grenache dominance but there are some secondary meaty and leafy hints which allude to the Mataro component. The acidity is med - and the tannins are soft med -. The length is medium and mildly singed by sweet spice. Drink now till 2012. (89 points)



This is one of the foremost domaines historically in Bandol but its wines have faded in recent years. This was a chance to preview two strong vintages from this domaine at its apogee in the late 80s and early 90s.

Wine 4: Domaine Pradeaux 1989

Uncorked and left to breath in the bottle for 2 hours before being poured. Still a dark ruby red with some brown tints on the edge betraying its age but not picked up by most tasters. The aroma of the wine was again more masculine, with meaty and smoky nuances and a dark cherry and plum note and also that tea leave topnote, mixed with dark earth notes. The wine still had med + tannins which were tight and grainy. The acidity of the wine was medium and the finish was medium +. A wine which amazingly was still closed and tannic, really showcasing the ageing ability of Bandol wines. Drink now till 2018. (91 points)

Wine 5: Domaine Pradeaux 1990

My favourite wine of the night. I had uncorked the wine for 2 hours with the cork in and then decanted it for 20 minutes to breath but it still required time. The colour was still a strong medium ruby red with some lightening on the edges. Slight murky indicating minimal filtration and fining. The nose was initially closed with some coaxing revealed dark cherry and currants fruits mixed with earthy mineral notes and some thyme too. There was an aristocratic leaning to the structure of the wine which remained tight yet with rounded tannins framing the deep seated black fruits as well. There was a constant mineral element and leathery notes rounded off an intense palate with a long finish. Drink 2012 to 2020. (92 points)

Conclusion

Ultimately a very insightful tasting with all 4 tasters in the group plumping for a variety of French regions around the 3-5 year age group with only one guessing as far back as 2001. All 4 concurred that the wines were not from a major grape like Cabernet, Syrah or Grenache in France but had opted out of Bandol and the majority went for the South of France and some more speciifically for the Southern Rhone. What was consistent was a subdued leathery and cherry nose with dried tea leaves and herbs. The wines had moderate acidity and some smoky spicy notes too. Tannin levels varied and the Aussie red herring was stylistically different to the Bandols, with more typical upfront sweet fruit giving it away. The ageing potential of the wines was a real eye opener for all including myself.


0 Comments
Chateau Vieux Montpezat 2005
An underated wines for the increasingly solid Cotes de Castillon. This wine is Merlot dominated with the balance made up of the Cabernet grapes. The wine was a a tarry opaque dark ruby with a youthful watery rim. On the nose there was dark plum, tar, cedar and blackberries with some leafy notes. The palate was dry with medium + tannins and alcohol as well as a velvety but rich mouthfeel. Flavours of blackberries, cedar, some mineral notes while lacking outstanding intensity provided sufficient interest leading to a medium finish. Drink 2012-2020. (90 points)
37 Comments
Billecart Salmon Rose NV
Classic rose colour with some orange tints indicating some age on the wine. The nose was a classic rose with autolytic yeasty notes but a clearly defined red berry and rose petal note, normally a hallmark of a rose champagne. There was also a baked apple element on the nose. On the palate the wine was structured with a firm grip on the palate and red fruit nuances with the pear and baked apple notes. The acidity was high still, keeping the wine fresh and the bubbles of the wine was medium, not overtly agressive now. A wine to drink now till 2018. (90 points)
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Dom Perignon 2000
A young Dom which is belying its relative youthfullness to show a vibrant and complex melange of yeast, toast and brioce on the nose. On the palate thea acidity of the wine is vibrant and fresh coupled with good density of honey, green apple and lemon flavours with toasty and smoky nuances. The wine had a vigorous petillance in line with its youth. An approachable Dom to drink now till 2025. There is certainly scope for further development of secondary notes which can only add to its complexity. (92 points)
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Emmanuel Rouget Bourgogne Passetoutgrains 2005
My first experience with this highly regarded burgundy producer. This is the entry level blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay. On the nose there is an immediate sense of the ripe vintage that the wine hails from with what the French call sur-maturite, very ripe fruit, in this case, predominantly black cherries and some blackberries. There were also some smoky mineral notes. On the palate the wine was still young and primary with dark berries, ripe raspberries and similar ripe black cherries but there were dense velvety tannins and moderate acidity. All in all a lush and fruity style of this wine displaying the heat of the 2005 vintage. Nevertheless impressive. Drink 2012 to 2018. (90 points)
38 Comments
Domenico Clerico Pajana 2003
Medium ruby core with a pale ruby almost browning rim. There is a deeper aroma profile of dark cherries and plums with some lifted clove and sweet spice notes. There are cedary and tarry nuances, alluding to some new oak ageing perhaps. The tannins are dense, enveloping and high perhaps from a long maceration on skins in barrel. There is good depth and intensity of flavours of dark berries, red currants, spicy cedar and a lead pencil, mineral backbone through the long finish. A masculine style as opposed to the more fragrant Scavino Carobric drunk prior. Drink 2014-2025. (91 points)
35 Comments
Paolo Scavino Carobric 2003
Medium red core with a pale ruby rim, little sign of browning. Aromas of rosewater and red cherries and sweet spice. Some classic tarry notes too. and lead pencils aromas The body is medium plus and the alcohol is medium + but well integrated, not showing any of heat of the vintage. Tastes of red cherries, red currants with a mineral and earthy note. The tannins are soft, grainy and medium with a fairly long finish. This is a wine which may develop slightly more but may not have the fruit intensity to age classically. Drink now till 2016. (90 points)
45 Comments
Schloss Lieser Auslese Niedelberg Helden Riesling Auslese 2004
Pale Yellow with a water rim. On the nose the wine has a zesty lemon aroma laced with tangerines and a floral note. One the palate there is an almost spritzy mouthfeel from the high but well integrated acidity, which balances off the medium sweetness of the wine. A hallmark of well made Ausleses. The flavours are of orchard fruits, tangerines , fgreen apple peels and again that typical lemon zest. There are some honeyed notes, possibly from the bortrytis influence and to round it off, a persistent mineral element on the long finish. Drink now till 2020. (90 points)
37 Comments
Maurodos San Roman 2005

Dark ruby red with slight bricking on the edges. Nose is liquer cherry and plum like with powerful varnish hints indicating some volatilte acidity perhaps. The palate is full bodied and viscous yet with fine and well integrated medium high tannins. The alcohol does show on the palate and there is a slightly ripe fruit character of sour plums and ripe red cherries. There are some smoky mineral notes leading to a finish which is moderate and a little hot. Drink now till 2015. (89 points)

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Cloudy Bay Te Koko Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Light yellow core with yellow tints indicating likely oak ageing. The nose is initially dominated by cedary oak, some resin indicating a high degree of new oak followed by notes of grapefruit, passionfruit and nectarines. The palate is commensurately oak driven, with buttery oak imparted nuances allied with bright nettly grapefruit and some passionfruit and unripe pineapples. There is an impressive mineral note on the medium to long finish. A lean style of NZ Sauvignon Blanc which is a tad dominated by the new oak. Perhaps needs 2 years to integrate. Drink 2012-2015. (90 points)
34 Comments
Ashton Hills Reserve Pinot Noir 2006
A medium red core lightening to a light red rim. The nose was suffused with forest floor notes, elusive at times interspersed with ripe red cherries and tingling sweet spice notes. The palate was light yet with a good intensity of red berry and cherry fruits with notes of that classic sois bois characteristic of a Burgundy. The wine held well over 2 hours continuing to display vibrant red berry fruits and a savoury complexity adding much interest to the wine. The tannins were low to moderate but well integrated into the wine which ended with a moderate to long finish. A Chambolle Musigny of Australia. Drink now till 2015. (92 points)
35 Comments
Picardy Tete de Cuvee Pinot Noir 2007
Medium ruby intensite with a vibrant sheen of a young wine. The nose was reserved with a strong earth and mineral notes. There was some subdued red cherry notes. The palate echoes the nose, with mineral and wet stones dominating the palate. An hour of airing reveals more musky red and black cherry notes and the mineral aspects have been fleshed out with some meaty hints. The oak, which was high quality French were clearly well integrated but need 2 years to integrate better. The finish was medium plus. Clearly a quality wine which requires at least 2 more years of ageing and there was more than an allusion in its meaty, dense mineral style to a Gevrey Chambertin. Drink 2012 - 2020. (89 points)
40 Comments
Houghton Jack Mann 1999
Deep ruby red with some lightening on its edges. This remains one of my favourite Aussie Cab blends, with that a pure cassis red berry spectrum of flavours on both nose and palate, and very fine and silky tannins imparting a structure of elegance hinting strongly at its strong breeding. The palate also shows mineral hints which adds a further intriguing element of interest. The finish is long and lingering. One of the best New World aussie Cab blends undoubtedly. Drink now till 2018. (92 points)
39 Comments

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Vintry is an old English word for a place where wine sold. With 3 outlets under the Vintry name, the group has grown from a humble wine shop to 3 unique wine bars in Malaysia.

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